Paris caps off strong season as menswear carves out its own space

“There’s been a consensus around where the menswear market is heading: pared back, sophisticated with more of a lean towards minimalism than the decoration we saw in the collections before the Covid pandemic,” says Mytheresa chief commercial officer Richard Johnson. “I loved Jonathon Anderson’s playful use of structure in tailored coats at Loewe, making menswear that falls somewhere between fashion and sculpture, and by contrast, Nigo’s loose, flowing and fluid suits paired with ’90s-inspired skate shoes at Kenzo. Something for the grown-ups and the kids, but which is which?”

Post-Covid, tailoring has returned in force. “Ties are back, notably in the US,” says Hermès’s executive vice president, manufacturing division and equity investments, Guillaume de Seynes.

Selfridges’s director of womens and menswear Bosse Myhr says: “One of the highlights from this season’s shows was Matthew Williams’s collection for Givenchy. The layered tailored looks are our favourites. In general, there was a sophisticated, grown-up trend throughout all shows: Milan and Paris. From a masterclass at Dior to an almost all-black collection at Junya Watanabe, it was the trend that could not be missed.”

Still, streetwear still has its place, says Myhr. “Off-White’s announcement to collaborate with the Chicago Bulls meant also that sportswear and streetwear is still around and feeling desirable as ever. Kid Cudi’s collection was a strong indication of that as well.” In the middle of fashion week, an NBA game in Paris drew Pharrell Williams and Naomi Campbell. 

In addition to the layered looks at Givenchy (notably skirts on pants), Williams created the first four looks with the couture atelier. “The street generation is returning to tailoring, but everything goes,” says Sidney Toledano, chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group, backstage after the Givenchy show. “There has been a revolution in men’s fashion started by Hedi Slimane at Dior 20 years ago. There were rules — now there’s amazing creativity.” 

Additional reporting from Luke Leitch.

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